JDS9860AAW Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges)
• Removed two screws
• Removed broken hinge
• Placed new hinge in place
• Replaced screws
• Replaced oven door.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Still not fixed. Waited about a year for the part to arrive, due to "COVID supply chain issue". Part finally arrived and was missing a sub component (ironically the worn out part). Now awaiting a reorder confirmation that this is being sent along with a return mailing label.
The re-order required me to obtain a better picture of the part from your competitor's web site, to prove the part sent was defective as your site was inadequate. My first call on this issue failed because of an absence of the better picture.
The 2nd call to customer service was very understanding and professional but I have yet to receive any confirmation on this re-order in the past 5 days.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Removed Stove cartridge from stove-top.

Unfastened bottom screws, I recall 6.

Removed cover.

Removed two screws to igniter.

Used needle nose pliers to remove connectors x 2.

Had to drill to enlarge the mounting screws to new ignitor, then screwed it in place

Connected the two wires to each igniter.

Replaced cover n screws.
Reinstalled cartridge.

Bingo

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.