FCG20100W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.

Note the position of the electrode on the side of the old burner cap. Turn the old burner cap one-eighth turn counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Raise the burner cap and disconnect the push-on connector wires from the ground and electrode. Clean the surface and connect the electrode and ground connector wires correctly to the new burner cap and place the burner cap back in the opening, positioning the electrode at the same orientation as it was with the old burner cap. Turn the cap one-eighth turn clockwise until the burner is snug. Turn on the burner control to test that the burner functions correctly. Make sure there is no smell of propane or gas when the burner is not in use which might indicate that the burner is not properly fitted snugly.

Put a new one in.

Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  tool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry

Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

Accessed igniter removed 2screws holding it.unpluged igniter installed new one.

replaced heat sensor

I used a pipe wrench to turn the old burner off and removed the crumbling washer underneath- no need to replace this. I took off the 2 wires, crimped them onto the new burner, twisted it back into place and presto- all fixed!

The repair was a no brainer - twist to release the old burner - disconnect the spark wires. connect the spark wires on the new unit - drop it in and twist to lock - about 2 minute job

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.

Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point:
- Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector
- Disconnect the old part
- Connect the new part
- Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.