JDR8895ACW Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The repair went very easy. Just took out the old set and put the new one in. The most time consuming part was to take off the outer parts of the stove to get to the part I needed to repair. The repair was easier than I had expected.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Removed two retaining screws and pulled out coil. one terminal came off readily but one remained and was difficult to get off. Pulled range out from wall and removed cover plate and removed existing terminal connection. Pushed new coil into oven openings and screwed in. Slide terminals on in the rear of range and replaced cover plate. Took about 1/2 hour because I was nervous.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Had to drill out rusted screws to remove the surface plate. Then replace Orifices as the screws we're not able to be drilled out.

I took all the threads apart and added Gas pipe thread compound to the small ones and Gas thread tap for the larger ones on the back. This whole project was due to a little gas smell. None of the threads seemed to have compound.

To solve the screw issue from rusting again I bought #8 metal stainless steal metal screws 3/4" with Hex heads. The old ones were for wood and just zinc coated. I had to rethread all the Orifices including the new ones with a tap set. Do yourself a favor and do the #8 1/2" ones by the dials too. This should solve any rusting issues in the future. This worked well and is similar to their new setup. I hope this helps.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Pulled the Oven out. Unplugged from wall. Removed all screws to appropriate upper stove panel to open back. Gained access to the control panel by removing all appropriate screws. Disconnected the ribbon cable and green, blue, white, yellow, black connectors.
Replaced new Control Panel and replaced screws. Plugged in each appropriate connector to its color-coded receptacle. They are all clearly labeled by color, so it is impossible to make mistake. You cannot go wrong. Connect ribbon and replace the back outer panel to the range covering the Control Panel. Plug Range into wall circuit and test new installation by following the instructions in manual that came with your range when it was purchased. Slide back into place. GREAT JOB! Easy-Peezy!

Two Screws on the back. Pull out heating element and remove wires. Install new wires and replace screws. Done in 5 minutes

I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

1) unplugged stove, 2) opened oven door, 3) removed racks, 4) Unscrewed heat element plate, 5) removed broken heat element, 6) connected new heat element, 7) re screwed in the plate, 8) plugged stove in, 9) turned oven on to verify new heat element was working, 10) placed rack back in oven. Done!