SVE47100W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.

It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

switch went well
removed 4 screws and lifed front panal up and out

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.

1. Pressed new door strike into access panel replaced access panel.
2. Turned off power to stove at main power switch panel. Opened access panel and decoupled down draft fan discharge duct. Pulled range out of counter about 3 inches to clear instrument panel side plates. Removed knob from control switch. Removed 4 screws retaining trim at bottom of instrument panel. Removed 4 screws holding instrument panel in place. Lowered instrument panel. Rotated panel top outward to expose surface burner infinite control switches. Checked all connections to suspect control switch with voltmeter to ensure no residual voltages present. Held new switch in same position as installed switch and swapped connections one at a time. Removed two screws holding old switch in panel and removed old switch. Installed new switch in panel using the two screws removed. Re-assembled range in reverse order above and slide back into counter. Recoupled downdraft fan discharge duct and reattached access panel. Reattached conrol switch knob. Restored power to range at main power switch panel. Turned control switch to High until element was red hot. Turned control knob to Low and verified element heat was reduced normally. (Control switch failure was determined by changing stove top elements and experiencing the same high only heating and loss of heat control. A small jar was used to hold all screwa as removed.)

5 min. to replace old with new. Remove 2 screws
and detatch wires. Re-attach wires and replace screws. PROBLEM -THE ELEMENT- I recieve had 2 wire legs which hold the element off oven floor, these legs were loosely to element and one came off during installation. OEM had large clamp on legs- I had to remove leg from OEM and attach to
element.( Hacksaw ,file ,vice)

Replaced the control.

We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!

I slipped the kick panel under a lip on the piece above it and that was all it took. No screws or tools necessary.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

removed the old by pulling it out of track and replaced it with the new filter

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Not much to tell about installing a new grill grate.
Partselct.com was very prompt and efficient in sending out the part.

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.