JDS9861AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Christine from Davie, FL
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
After self cleaning the oven received an error code telling me the sensor was bad.
Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )
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- Customer:
- James from walnutport, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750, W11233072
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven wouldn't heat
removed the screws,pulled the element out about 3 inches disconnected the 2 wires
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Wappingers Falls, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.
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- Customer:
- Geoge from Uniontown, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12001694
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Cracking noise then oven went out. Turned oven back on and sparks /smoke came out of back of stove.
The problem was easy to find since the board had caught fire and you could tell which board was bad. I had to remove the protecting jacket. Then removed two screws. I disconnected and reconnected the wires one at a time so I could tell where they went.
The hardest part was pulling the stove out and cleaning the dust and split food.
The hardest part was pulling the stove out and cleaning the dust and split food.
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- Customer:
- Robbie from Hillsboro, TX
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
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- Customer:
- Phyllisa from Plain City, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Element Broke
Piece of cake! Took more time to find the screwdriver than it did to replace the element!
Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
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- Customer:
- Al from Abbeville, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP3147265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The switch on the exhaust fan for the grill part of the stove went bad. I found the part on your site easily , ordered it and got it within 4 days.
I simply looked at the new switch , to see how it fastened in the stove. It had plastic clips that were easily depressed to allow the swithch to be removed. I removed it , (after turning the circuit breaker off to the stove) removed the three wires , and replace them on the new switch and simply pushed it in the space. It snapped in place , and the job was done . Works great!
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- Customer:
- Melanie from Renton, WA
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element stopped working
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
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- Customer:
- David from Green Lane, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384, WP74010750, 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
oven would not come up to temp. that was set
Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story.
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great
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- Customer:
- robert from orange, CA
- Parts Used:
- 74003320
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
inner glass busted
I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.
PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.
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- Customer:
- chris from houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
1998 oven unit flashing F3
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
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- Customer:
- Chris from Larkspur, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP3403M075-10
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner Heads Corroded and Leaking
Remove 7 screws to remove cover. Disconnect ignitor wire. Unscrew gas supply. Twist burner head to remove (can be difficult). Reverse procedure.
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- Customer:
- Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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- Customer:
- Randall from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- 74003320, WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Inner Galls on door was craked
Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought
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- Customer:
- John from Ashland, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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