JER8785RAB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

First I removed the oven door, then I removed the three screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I connected the two wires to the new element , replaced the three holding screws and the oven door. ------END-------

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

removed the two screws in the rear of the oven to access the element. once exposed I removed the four screws holding the element in place. Went to the ouitside back of the stove and removed one screw holding the shield to access the terminals for the element. Installation was in reverse order.

The bake element in this oven is covered by a tray but after locating the screws for that and removing I could see the element was burnt so I just removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) then just reversed the procedure to install. Don't forget to unplug the unit first.

Turn of power to the range. The element lies beneath a metal cover. The cover is held down by two screws in each of the back cornors. The burner element is held by a screw in the the back and by two screws near the front. Replacing the element was a snap. With the screws removed, pull on the element until the connecting wires are exposed. Pull the wires from the element and attatch to new element. Replace screws, cover etc. Turn on power and note the time it takes to reach a preset temp. You may detect a slight oder form a coating on the new element. .

First of all, let me say how "Not Handy" I am when it comes to these things. I decided to give this part a try after my oven decided to fail on Thanksgiving Day, so I ordered the part. It arrived on time as promised and packaged very well. The on-line parts breakout and testimony from the other buyers were so helpful. I had our oven back up and running in less than 10 minutes.

One thing I would also recommend is that you burn the element once installed for at least 15 minutes to get the newness smell off of it and then it won't permeate your food items.

Thanks, Parts Select! You saved me over $900.00; the price it was going to cost me to buy a new oven. :)

Pull oven away from wall and unplug. with the oven door open, remove 2 rear screws holding down the element cover and pull element cover out of the oven. remove 2 screws holding element down to the bottom of the stove, and one screw holding the back of the element to the rear. now go behind the oven and remove the access plate to the element power connection (one screw). Disconnect the 2 element power wires. remove element. to install, reverse these instructions

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

The part fit perfectly.Ther repair was logic. The door was of course heavy . I needed an extra hand.
I would have appreciated of instructions were included with the part. Also a web link on how to do it would alos have helped greatly

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!