FCE30600W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I received the new element on the third day, followed simple directions, and voila! I'm baking again.
First I unplugged the stove. Important!. Then with a phillips head screwdriver I removed the two screws at the back of the oven. The transition from busted to new was easy because there was a slide-in connection to the wires, not screws. The best advice was sticking duct tape on the wires so they wouldn't go back into the inner sanctum before I was able to attach the new element. Hey, I'm a 72-year-old grandma, and it was easy!

Removed 2 phillips screws, unplugged 2 wires, threw away old element. Installation of the new element was just as easy but in reverse order. Piece of cake!

First throw the breaker on the stove. Remove two screws in back of oven then slowly pull out loosen the wire attachements ......got new part in 2 days just as simple reverse the removal directions.,,,I am over 60 female and it was simple.

Turned off power, removed 2 screws, un-hooked the connections, them put in the new element in reverse order.

First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.

I first shut off the breaker to the stove - safety first!

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the two screws that held the old element in. Then I pulled the old element out and used the pliers to remove the electrical connections. I put the new element in, made the electrical connections and secured it with the screws. After restoring powere via the breaker, we tested the stove and it worked. Just call me the Maytag Man!

Took two screws out unplugged the element and plugged the new one in and replaced the screws and turned the breaker back on. Works great...Piece of cake..jk

Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Removed the cooktop using screwdriver. Pushed lens-light into cooktop hole.It was difficult to do and was where I spent most of my time. Next time I will spray bottom of lens- light with silicon so it goes in easier. I stood cooktop up on its side and inserted the red light assembly onto the lens-light. Reinstalled cooktop
and turned electrical power on.

1st I looked for the mounting screws and determined the tolls needed. I then removed the the screws required and took off the old trim. I then cleaned the area around the trim piece and installed the new trim. i reattached the handle and the job was done

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.