JDS8850BDB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Clearly, the oven gasket was not the cause of the problem.
The hinge replacements did not fix the problem. I think the problem was that the hinge's mating part inside the door had been deformed, perhaps by leaning on the door when fully opened. I compensated for that by placing two stacked magnets near the upper hinge mounting screw hole on the inside of the oven body. (0.75" screws , 8-24 or metric equiv., needed for the upper screw location.) This gave the hinge about 15 degrees of additional door tilting force. In addition, I added 6 ceramic magnets across the top of the door mating surface, kudos to that website. Now it pulls fully flush with the magnets.
Ceramic magnets are good to 400+ degrees and they come in boxes of 120 for $12.00.
I only had one oven as a sample, but I could see what I thought was deformation on the inside of the oven door where the hinges are inserted. In this case, I think that makes (only) hinge replacement futile.
Sorry if this solution does not fit your marketing desire, but I did leave the new hinges installed.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

Installing the 2 new burner assemblies worked great with the new screws. New screws however, did not work with the old burner assemblies that have rusted screws I wanted to replace. New burner assemblies are slightly taller that the old ones.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .

Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!