SCE70600W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

First I took the screws off of the top hood which can be found right underneatch, this allowed me to access the panel bolts and unscreww them. We then got it far enough so that we could easily replace the old with the new and plug things back in and we were good to go. I am not sure but we must have save hundreds of dollars in a repairman.. This website is awesome..

This slide out range requires that you remove two screws that hold the element into the back of the oven, slide the range out, remove a metal cover, and then disconnect the two spade connectors from the element. Reverse is the opposite. I could not find the element anywhere locally. I live in a rural area of the Smokey Mountains. Thanks to PartSelect, I was up and running in only four days.

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

1. Removed knobs and front panel. Disconnect wiring.
2. Order part and installed. Done

This is the second clock I have had to put in this unit in about that many years. The first time I disassembled far to many things. This time I knew to only unscrew the front panel and side triangle plates. The process was much faster the second time. I hope this is not a chronic problem though.

As described by many others before. Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel for the house. Unscrewed the front panel, disconnected the three connections to the old assembly and unscrewed the assembly.

Cleaned a few pieces then screwed in an connected the new assembly, put it all back together, turned on the power, said a prayer and IT WORKED!

I looked at the schematic from PartsSelect, undid the 8 screws and replaced the clock assembly. I probably saved $200 on labor doing it myself. I had the clock repaired in 30 minutes.

Once the display became too dim to read, I removed the front panel to determine how to access the piece and to check part numbers so that I could order the proper piece. Once the part arrived, being familiar with the disassembly, it was simple enough to replace the part quickly. The part came out with two screws and the connections were standard electronic multi plug, making the replacement simple. When we turned the power to the unit on, it worked first time.