SCE70600W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

First I took the screws off of the top hood which can be found right underneatch, this allowed me to access the panel bolts and unscreww them. We then got it far enough so that we could easily replace the old with the new and plug things back in and we were good to go. I am not sure but we must have save hundreds of dollars in a repairman.. This website is awesome..

Turned off the breaker. Removed the screws under the front panel and eight screws behind the burner controls (two each). I then slid out the panel and laid it flat on top of the stove. Removed the three connectors. Most difficult was the ribbon connector: Squeeze the clips at each end and slide the top half of the connector up. Then the ribbon slides out (practice on the new part). Only two screws held the assembly in. Reverse the process with the new assembly. Worked great!

piece of cake KILL POWER AT BREAKER BOX. Remove burner knobs exposing 4 screws. Open oven door exposing 4 philips srews, four 1/4 hex head screws, and 2 philps screws for end caps. Had to pull out range about an inch (less) away from countertop. Remove screws. Move end caps away from face plate.Pull out face plate. Pull down / out bottom plate to expose Assembly. Unclip wire connection, carefully pull out ribbon connection. Remove 2 screws. Install in reverse.

My microwave is stacked on this stove. I had to pull cover off to slide part off. screws were a snap. only problem was the slip catches on the ribon strips. Sperating with flat head was scary but worked fine.

I first turned off the circuit breaker for the range. I then I removed the four hex screws from the underside of the panel and then dropped the panel to expose the clock assembly. I then removed the two screws holding it in place, disconnected the cables and removed the old unit. I then reversed the procedure to install the new unit. I next turned on the circuit breaker restoring power to the range. And like magic I once again had light. I know I must have made by Daddy proud. I should have done it sooner. Thank you for making it so easy by sharing the "how to's" with me. It was especially helpful to have the model number.

Turn off power to the stove. Pop off the burner knobs and remove the screws attaching the controls to the front panel. Open the oven door and remove the four screws attaching the panel to the oven frame. The panel slides down giving easy access to the circuit board. Remove the two connectors and the ribbon cable attached to the board. There are small clips on the side of the ribbon cable connector that release the ribbon cable. Unscrew the board and install new board. Reattach the cables, put the panel back in place and attach. Reattach the burner controls to the panel, pop the knobs back on, power the stove back on, put on a pair of sunglasses to view the now blazingly bright display and admire your work.

I looked at the schematic from PartsSelect, undid the 8 screws and replaced the clock assembly. I probably saved $200 on labor doing it myself. I had the clock repaired in 30 minutes.