S125-C Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The oven that was in out newly purchased house was a JennAir and over 20yrs old. Worked ok, but as with any heating element, the performance wanes over time. I decided to replace the baking and broiling element...and the oven door seal while I was at it. Everything went well, it was a simply remove/replace. Then I bumped the oven door where it was leaning up against the fridge waiting to be reinstalled. Down it fell on the tile floor. SMASH! Tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Got online with PartSelect and ordered a replacement (very reasonable price). It arrived in 2 days...just like the elements. Replacement was easy. Thanks to PartSelect for having the parts in stock and delivering them in record time!

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 5 inches so I could reach and pull off the wire clips from the old element. I then attached the wire clips onto the new element and pushed back the wires into the insulated area and when the back plate matched up to the screw holes, I re-inserted the screws and tighten them down. The oven works great.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

First we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After pulling it from the back of the oven we did not realize that the clips that held the wires could be slipped off the 'tongues' of the element. Therefor we thought we had to cut the wires - which we did. After realizing that the clips came off, we went to the store and bought a box of new clips, stripped a small portion of the plastic on the wire to expose the wire and put it in the new clips and crimped them. Then slipped the new clips onto the new element, replaced it and put the old screws back. You wouldn't need to buy new clips (not expensive) if you know ahead that they can be removed from the old element and slipped onto the new one. We were amazed at how quickly the element arrived in the mail. Have bookmarked this sight for future repairs.