SCE4340W-C Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Removed back of stove - 4 screws on top, 3 underneath. Unplugged wires from element. Removed element - 2 screws in front and 2 in the back. Installed new element, plugged wires back in, reinstalled back panel.

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

Took the oven door off hinge. Took door apart pulled off old seal from inside of the inside panel of door. Replaced with new seal.

Followed instructions. Two screws frozen. Unable to loosen. Forced to grind heads off and replace with new screws.

Left door attached to range. Took out all screws on door to get to the door seal. Cleaned parts as I went. Took out old seal and laid new seal in. Had to get two more hands to hold the parts and glass together while screwing it back together. Only hard part was remembering which screws went where. Looks and works like new. So glad I did it, as it has needed it for a long time. Easy even for a 70 year old female. PartSelect had the best price even with shipping. Thanks

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

The basic replacement of the bad seal went fairly well. Just had to follow the other guidance and pay close attention to the correct sequence so that the door goes back together as it should be. The only real difficult part was when attempting to hold the hinge downward so that the door could be properly placed back on the hinges. After closer examination I discovered that there were two holes in each of the hinges that when they were opened all the way that the holes lined up and I cut off two nails approx 2 inches long and then once I was able to pry the two hinges all the way opened and then I used them to slip in through the two holes and they worked just fine and they held the door open, until the door could be re-installed. Once installed the nail/pins could be easily removed with some needle nose pliers.

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

Remove the door. Place small screwdriver in each door arm to prevent extraction. Remove approx 20 screws. Remove the seal. Replace the new seal. you will need help in holding the seal in place until you car install at least two screws. Very straight forward. Took 20 minutes. Even a cave man can do it.

In response to your question.......everything went perfectly!! The reason?? I read the directions that were very easy to follow. It was a quick, easy repair, and the stove burner is working like new.

Thank you for your help!!

Bob

Removed 4 screws, tilted cover up and lifted out, removed wires from switch, removed 2 screws holding switch, lifted switch out. Replaced with new switch, connected wires, secured cover with the 4 screws. It worked!