SCE4340B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

Parts no longer available so we went to several appliance stores and measured racks. We found a jenair model had racks that measured correctly got the model number and ordered the racks. There working great and now the oven looks like new. Our kitchen is a restored 1956 GE metal kitchen in Cadilac pink. Thanks guys for the fast service and very resonsble price. Was also very happy to find the racks were made in USA.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Al lI had to do remove the oh swith & attach th e new on & push in place
It took about 5 min. to turn off the electric & to turn it back on.
Glen V

We followed the instructions on the video after receiving our part - they were perfect instructions and led us right through the repair. I have to say it would have been harder to do with one person - but probably doable.

Easy as Pie.

installed parts

First I moved the left rear burner to the right front. No change. Then I moved the burner units from left to right, No change. I guessed it was the control switch and ordered from PartSelect. Turnaround time from PartSelect was excellent.
I turned off the powerr to the range. Removed the screws holding on the front panel and then pulled the panel out far enough to see behind it. I located the faulty control switch and then held the new switch, next to it, and turning to proper orientation. I then, one at a time moved the wires to the new switch. After that it was mount the new switch, put the panel back in place and turn on the power.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Removed back of stove - 4 screws on top, 3 underneath. Unplugged wires from element. Removed element - 2 screws in front and 2 in the back. Installed new element, plugged wires back in, reinstalled back panel.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

We took the door off, you have to be careful of the hinges popping back. We put small screwdrivers on each side and held the hinges out, this made the door easy to just stand up and slide back on the hinges. The glass replacement was simple just a few screws. We spent $127.00 on the part and shipping and a new wall oven would have cost us $1500.00. Thanks for making this part available.

Followed instructions. Two screws frozen. Unable to loosen. Forced to grind heads off and replace with new screws.