FCE4040B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Julie from Newnan, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10355051
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
Baked on sauce
Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.
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- Customer:
- Carol from Brunswick, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP74003019
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven heating/bake element cracked
First-my daughter needed her pizza and I didn't want to even think about the cost of a new range. So she did some research online about replacement parts. Lo an behold, Partselect.com was our answer.
We received the part in a few days and replaced it with just unscrewing a few screws.. AFTER we unplugged the range. We also used a tool that I would describe as a nail remover/lifter to get the end off of the wire connection. Needless to say, we were rookies and had no experience with this type of repair and were so proud that we were able to spend less than $30.00 to fix our oven.
Thanks to Partselect.com for making it easy to do this repair on our own.
We received the part in a few days and replaced it with just unscrewing a few screws.. AFTER we unplugged the range. We also used a tool that I would describe as a nail remover/lifter to get the end off of the wire connection. Needless to say, we were rookies and had no experience with this type of repair and were so proud that we were able to spend less than $30.00 to fix our oven.
Thanks to Partselect.com for making it easy to do this repair on our own.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Parts Used:
- 4396923
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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- Customer:
- Joshua from Reno, NV
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not preheat and gave 'F1' error
Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...
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- Customer:
- Mark from Lake Orion, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F-3 error code
I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.
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- Customer:
- Crystal from Scott City, MO
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
When the oven was turned on, F2 and F4 came on. Oven wouldn't heat.
After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.
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- Customer:
- Pat from Bucklin, KS
- Parts Used:
- WP9781049
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original oven light lens had cracked and broken in two.
I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).
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- Customer:
- Richard from Wilmington, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP74003019
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The oven wouldn't heat
First I shut off the power at the circuit breaker.Then I removed the racks to make room to work.I then removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled both sides out approx.3 inches.After carefully disconnecting the wires,I put the new element in to place and repeated the steps backwards.
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- Customer:
- Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
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- Customer:
- Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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- Customer:
- Judy from West Salem, IL
- Parts Used:
- 7403P238-60
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
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- Customer:
- Ellen from Schenectady, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Massapequa, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven temperature lower then setpoint.
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
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- Customer:
- Debra from Colts Neck, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
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- Customer:
- Shaun from Kimball, NE
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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