JDS9860BDS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

EXTREMELY simple - drop in. AND- the part cost less than half the price quoted by appliance vendor...2 years earlier !!! This site is a marvelous resource for parts one can install with minimal skill.

Removed old element, and easily popped in the new one.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Removed old filter and replaced with new.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

The steel mounting screw tends to seize in the aluminum burner head. It is not easy to extract, or to drill out and rethread. My advice is to replace the burner head at the same time.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Slide appliance forward approximately one foot. Open oven door to the broil position and lift oven door straight up and off of the hinges. Remove warming drawer or lower faceplate. If equipped with a grease trap remove by removing two Philips head screws and sliding down off the ridged grease line. Remove the two hex head screws on the face of the frame while supporting the hinge. *** WARNING*** this is where it can be difficult to do for a do it yourselfer. The mounting holes on the new hinges DO NOT come with threads to accept the mounting screws. You will have to use a Tap and Die set to determine the thread and cut your own threads into the hinge mounting holes.
Once complete reinstall new hinges into oven and attach with the hex head screws. reinstall the grease trap and warming drawer or face plate. Position the hinge in the partially open position on both sides and slide the oven door back onto the hinges. Close and open oven and verify smooth operation and no gaps exist around door when closed.

I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Took two hex head screws out. Pulled element out slow. Got slack pulled off connections. Reverse order for install

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.