SCE4320W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

removed 4 screws holding entire face plate. Rolled face plate up on top of stove and left all wires attached (many). removed 4 screws adjacent to clock assy. Removed control knob just on either side of clock assy and removed control screws (2 on each). removed wires attached to clock assy and transferred new assy. Re-assembled and set clock time.

Serviceman took out broken glass by removing door and separating front of door from back of door. He carefully removed all broken glass Then replaced with new glass and fastened door together . He did repair in 20 minutes. Oven is like new. Thank you very much for still stocking this part that allows me to keep my oven repaired.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.