IER320WW0 Inglis Range - Instructions

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

1) Unplug stove.
2) Remove back cover of the stove held in place by 8 screws (4 short ones for the upper holes and 4 longer ones for the lower holes.).
3) Remove the knob from the switch that you are replacing to expose
the switch mounting screws (2 screws).
4) Remove the screws.
5) Go to the rear of the stove and extract the defective switch.
6) You will see 2 plastic plugs going into/onto the switch. Remove the
plugs. MAKE SURE YOU ARE UNPLUGGED FROM THE
Wall OUTLET!! A small flat blade may be needed to separate the
plugs from switch.
7) Attach the plugs to the new switch (there is only one way to do it.
you wont get them confused and put on wrong.
8) Put the new switch where the defective one was.
9) Come to the front of the stove and put your two screws in and
replace the knob.
10) Replace the back cover,
11) Plug in and test burner.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

replaced drip pans with correct type

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.

Wire connection was damaged, replaced end piece

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

Removed old terminal block & replaced with new one. Very simple. Did NOT have to replace cover as stated you should. Shipping could have been a little faster. Will definetly try this site again.