IEP314RQ0 Inglis Range - Instructions

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Only difficult because one heating element connector broken off. Before receiving correct part, tried to install generic element, which had leads about 2 inches too long, so trying to force into place bent electrical connectors that go from oven to heating element. Tried to bend one back and it broke off, so did not bend 2nd one back. Received correct heating element, and slid unbroken connector on one element side, and soldered 2nd element on. Screwed heating element in and it works fine.

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

Followed the video step by step. No problem

R&r

So easy. Unplug the range. (really important. You're working with wiring after all) Unscrew the metal plate holding the bake element in place, gently pull out the wires and detach the element from them. (the element just pulls off, but it was attached pretty tightly so I did have to use needlenose pliers to get a better grip on it.) Then simply plug in the new bake element, push the wires back in, reattach the metal plate and bake a cake! Don't even think about calling a repairman for this one! It took under 10 minutes once I got around to ordering the element. (none of the local stores carried them)

This was very straight forward. Once the sheet metal shroud on the back side was removed just had to undo the one remaining wire, remove the block, and reassemble. Only question I had was which wires went where. The Wiring Block was melted due to the short and the wires were no longer attached. Did a quick google for a typical oven three-wire install and that did the trick.

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

Went on line to see if the repair could be done by us. Watched repair video and from there on the repair went as smooth as it possibly could.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

Removed the therminal block and put the new one in.Using a screwdriver, very easy repair.

replace

unscrew two screws..took old element out, put perfect fit new element in,screw two screws back in.

EASY!! Repairs saved $300.00 on serviceman fees they will rip you off for this simple repare