IJP87802 Inglis Range - Instructions

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.

Most of the basics have been covered in previous post. I can add this- those who claim 15 minute-fixes are delusional, unless they're appliance repairmen. Secondly- what will take time is the cleaning. If you have to do this repair, which requires extensive disassembly of the door, it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity to thoroughly clean all four layers of glass. Take the glass panes outside and use oven cleaner. This takes time. Other than that, the pancakeing of the components on re-assembly is tricky, but you can do it. Don

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

The range top came off with two screws under the front portion of the glass top (by the oven door). I unplugged the connection plugs at the rear off the range top, unscrewed the rear screws holding the heating unit in place and plugged in new element and reassembled range unit. You need to removed the two phillip head screws at the rear of the range top in order to remove the bar holding the heating element. Once you do this it is very easy to finish the job.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Removed the right side panel, lifted up insulation, removed element and replaced with new.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.