RB5284A1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

I ordered the bake element on Monday and received it on Wednesday. Great delivery.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...
Then I installed the new element using the steps above in reverse. Very clean and simple. One tip though...open your oven door slightly to the detent and pull straight up. The door slips off easily and allows easy access to the bake element screws.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I reattached them to the new element screwed it back in place and I was done. Could not have been easier! Getting the right replacement part the next day after placing the order was a pleasant surprise. This is the second time I used your company and I am very impressed with your service. I recommend you to everyone I can. Great Job!

First removed screws then removed burned out element.Replaced with new element and replaced screws and cooked pizza.

The delivery of the part was within 3 days.I only had to connect the two screws had biscuits that night.

Removed 2 mounting screws - Removed 2 screws used to attach wiring to element. Received new element and re-attached the 4 screws.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Simply removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. Part Select was the only company that was able to identify the part without the Model Number. The Model number was
worn off and unable to read. After going through several
on-line parts dealers, Part Select was the only company that could identify the part I needed. The repair was simple and
short. My old stand by oven is in operation again.
Thanks, Laura

Element was in two pieces so it was obviously dead. I disconnected the stove from the power, I undid the two screws at the back of the oven and gently pulled the element out. There was enough slack to reach and pull the connectors apart. Done. I ordered the part from "PartSelect" and it arrived the next day. Unfortunately I ordered the element with "Screw" convectors as opposed to "push on" connectors. I bought a couple of connectors and cut off the original connectors from the wires in the oven and replaced them making absolutely sure they were well and truly tight. Two screws cam with the element from "PartsSelect (Thankfully). Connected the wires and screwed it back into place. Stood clear, plugged it in and turned it on to max. Worked just fine, Thanks

I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them from being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

Super easy, 1 2 3 steps and your done. Make sure to turn power off, remove two screws off of back plate. Remove two screws on wire connectors. Throw old element away and connect both wires to new element and screw back into place. Turn power back on and start cooking.

I took the old element out, compared it to the pictures of the GE replacement elements, identified the correct one and ordered. It came I installed it in 15 minutes and it works just right. I was unable to determine the model number of my old oven so the pictures of replacement elements were invaluable. Thanks for making it so easy to avoid calling a repairman.

Same as you described