RS46*J3 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Four screws and two wires.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I replaced it with the new element that took only two days to arrive and that was without paying extra express shipping fees. It couldn't have been easier. I didn't even wait for my husband to come home and install it. I had an oven-baked meal ready when he got home. I was very satisfied.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

My sons helped with that. They had to use a pliers to remove the old screws (did not have to notches). After that they they removed the element. Then the wires had to be disconnected (after we unplug the oven from the main power source. Then the wires were connected to the new heating unit. We only got one screw in so far will work on getting the second one in when they return tomorrow. I did turn on the oven and it works!!!

Thank you to the nice young man that helped me on the phone.

Removed the two screws which held the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 2-3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Of course I turned off the breaker which fed the range. This had been done earlier so that wife could throughly clean the oven while the element was out of the way, When the new element arrived, we put it into the oven, reconnected the wires to the lugs on the element, pushed it back into the hole, pushed the insulation which protruded back into the hole, and replaced the two screws which held the back plate in place. Turned the breaker back on and turned oven on to test the repair job. Everything worked AOK.

.....then tested for voltage, had it. Ordered the element through partselect.com and it came in the mail THE NEXT DAY! No kidding! Installed it and the wife is back to her good cooking. All is well, thanks partselect.com. John R., Pompano Beach, Florida

removed the old, replace the new. The delivery of my new part was exceptional, received the very next day after ordering.

All other reviews decribed the repare process that I used with no problems. The only reason I took about twenty minutes instead of around 15 minutes was it took me a few minutes to get the correct socket to remove the two small lag screws of the old bake element to free it from the oven wall. I did not have to remove the oven door as it was not a problem in reaching the back of the oven. My range is 25 years old.

1)Unscrewed the mounting nuts, 2) pulled the heating element out a couple of inches, 3) unscrewed the screws holding the wires in place, 4) removed and tossed the old heating element, 5) placed the new heating element in place, 6) re-screwed the wires to to the element, 7) pushed the heating element back into the wall of the oven, 8) reset the mounting nuts, 9) cleaned up the work area, 10) cranked up the oven and made a pizza. I'm not particularly skilled when it comes to things of this nature, but it was ridiculously easy...

Simple replacement. Price for replacement was excellent. Cheaper than any replacement I priced locally and arrived the day after I ordered.


Thanks!

Without taking off the door, which made it a little more difficult, all I had to do was unscrew two screws and disconnect the wires from the element and replace with new element and screw it back in.

Other than the screws were in there for 28 years that made one a bit hard to remove, the task was simple.