RB526DH1WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

easy, less then 15 min. but take off door first makes alot easier. and don't forget to unplug, like i did. just a few sparks but no damage thank god.

attached the element,pushed it back in the pocket,put the plate back on, screwed the nut and bolt back on and was done in less than 4 minutes!!

I watched the video on this website and it couldn't have been easier. The only thing I did differently was I took the door off for an easier reach. To take the door off, you open just a little and pull up. It makes it so much easier to get at the screws, and maked the repair a snap.

took 5 minutes with a nut driver and son. I had previously watch your video and went exactly as the video described and showed.

just purchased new knobs. The price was great, just took a little longer to receive then anticipated though.

followed the instruction from your video an it was a snap

I removed the burners, took the old drip pans out, put the new ones in and put the burners back in. This was so easy that a caveman could do it.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy