RB526DH1WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Turned off circuit breaker, Then pulled out range, straight out and away from wall and cabinets. Layed braket on flooring and moved stove back in to make certain it aligned with range rear stands. Moved range back out, marked holes in braket, screwed in screws to anchor bracket. Pushed range back into placed against wall. Tried to |"tilt" range by pulling down on door after opened - range was held in place sre

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

unplugged old block from both sides, ran new wire and plugged new wire to both ends and presto it worked, thanks for making it easy to fix. Thanks- Michael J Dumas

The repair was somewhat easy. The replacement elements are pushon type. The only thing is that the G.E. Hotpoint wire on the right side of the bake element is short. Be extra careful to not have it go back into the back oven wall or you will have to take the back cover plate (Pull out the range, remove the back cover using a nut driver or a magnetic tip srewdriver with the bit removed works[Wires are right there]. This is as easy a job as can be.

Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy

After not using our oven all summer a mouse had been hiding out in the oven insulation and apparenting was starting to make a home. We caught the mouse, but when we turned on the oven recently we noticed a horrific smell and immediately turned it off. It was evident that the smell was not burnt food. We jumped on the internet to see where and how to access the insulation in our oven and found Parts Select. That is when we saw that this is actually a common problem when an oven is not used for a prolonged period. Ordered the new insulation part for our oven and paid extra to have it delivered more quickly. Pulled out the oven from the wall and unplugged it. Took off the top of oven and removed old insulation. Yuck, that was disgusting. Cleaned the inside surface with disinfectant before putting in the new insulation. Took about 20 minutes from beginning to finish.

Turn off power to oven. Removed the rack. used a 1/4" nut driver and removed the two screws holding the element to back of oven. Slid the element out, unhook the two wires clipped to the end of the element. Replaced it with the new element, installing it in reverse. Took about 15 min. Rememer to turn off power to oven before attempting to work on it.

easy, less then 15 min. but take off door first makes alot easier. and don't forget to unplug, like i did. just a few sparks but no damage thank god.

First and foremost this website was very easy to locate the part number that we needed. Unplugged range from the wall. Removed the upper metal plate off of the back. Removed the ovens' control knob in the front, then removed the 2 screws that released the thermostat. Opened oven door and released the metal thermostat probe. Cut the other end of that wire at the thermostat switch in the rear of the range. Taped that wire to the new metal probe. pulled the old probe out the front of the oven pulling the new probe in place. Switched 1 wire at a time from the old thermostat to the new one in the back of the range. Works great. No more burnt muffins !

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.