RGB533BEK1BB Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- William from BOSCOBEL, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Getting thew the back
I put it in the same way tuck it out
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- Customer:
- NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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- Customer:
- Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB19K10044
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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- Customer:
- Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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- Customer:
- Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks old and ugly
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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- Customer:
- Thomas from HAMPSTEAD, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB15X10047
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Removal reinstalling
Removal old fashioned oven door handle took time after removing the oven door. New replacement handle was easy to install! Try to reinstall was long and finally got installed after 5 attempts due hinge on right side issue
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- Customer:
- Dana from LEEDS, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB01K10112
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
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- Customer:
- Juanita from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10070, WB16T10046, WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
gas burners not heating evenly
remove old burner, put new in place
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- Ann from Ashland, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB29K10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
worn and pitted burner caps
Removed the old caps and replaced with new burner caps. The stove top looks brand new. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- craig from unadilla, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10190
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Front orifice tube broke
The repair went easy the tube was a perfect fit
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- Customer:
- Janet from Jessup, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10190, WB28K10189
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Bent/Broken Front Orifice Tubes
I removed the two nuts that secure the rear orifice tubes. This allowed me to lift the range top to access the broken tubes. Once lifted I removed the nuts that held the broken orifice tubes. I then connected the new orifice tubes. I removed the three(star)screws that fasten the orifice brackets under the range top. Doing this allowed me to connect the new tubes without having to maneuver them at all. I then lowered the top just enough to reattach the brackets. After securing the rear tubes I snapped the range top back into place. Just remember, if you use propane for cooking then you must remove the brass orifices from the old tubes and place them in the new ones. If you don't do this then your flame will not burn properly. Simply unscrew them from the old tubing and put them in the new tubing.
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- Customer:
- Gary from Alameda, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
With the oven dial at OFF, the oven would turn on by itself every 5 to 10 minutes and it would heat up to about 100F and shut off.
Unplugged the range. Took out all the necessary screws and lifted up the cooktop cover. Unscrewed each gas tubes connecting to each gas burner's dial to allow more working space. Pulled out the old thermostat, installed the new one. Put back the gas tubes and all other necessary screws. Plugged the range and tested out the new thermostat.
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