RS779G1J8 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

The first thing I did wrong was order the wrong part. Then later I did find the Model number on the side of the bottom drawer. I reordered the right part and turned off the electrical breaker. Removed the old element. I then installed the element in the oven with 2 screw nuts and pulled out the stove, took off the back panel and slipped the wire nuts onto the element. Very simple. I am really thankful there is a place to order the part and it came the next day after I ordered it. WHOW!

Removed oven door by holding sides and pulling upward. It's easy to remove and replace. Removed shelves by sliding back and up, then out. Removed two hex nuts with socket wrench. They are on back wall of oven and secure element to that wall. I then pulled element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two leads.

I put new element in, reconnected two leads, replace two hex nuts and was done.

Turn off power to stove at circuit breaker before starting.

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

Very easy and simple/ After making sure power supply was off, removed socket screws in back plate of element, slid old element out, attached new element and replaced/tightened socket screws on plate and new element. Power on, oven on .. heated quickly and nicely. Used oven several times since ... no problems.

First I read the already posted repair stories to give me confidence I could perform the repair.
Followed their steps -
Removed the two screws holding the plate to the oven.
Pulled out the element.
Removed the two screws holding the wires to the element.
Installed the new element by attaching the two screws (which were supplied) to the element.
Reinstalled the plate to the oven.
Tested it and it worked perfectly saving a costly service call.

It was so easy. Just removed the cover and then unscrewed the wires (keep track of which wires go to which side). Do teh reverse to reinstall