RGB740DEP1WH Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Bill from Harleysville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bake didn't work, broiler did
Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.
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- Customer:
- Robert from FALL CITY, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Igniter would not glow and light oven.
Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The oven igniter burned out.
I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Grand Haven, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven would not light , Broiler ok
Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.
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- Customer:
- Rupert from Glen Ellyn, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broiler works, oven did not heat
Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from Palo Alto, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven would not heat
I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.
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- Customer:
- Steve from WOODHULL, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21K10100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The front left burner would not turn because the burner valve was physically stuck and wouldn't turn.
Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
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- Customer:
- Darell from Garnerville, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
oven wouldn't heat
removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.
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- Customer:
- Joan from Riverdale, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Oven Would Not Turn On.
Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with the new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from DeKalb, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Over not lighting
Remove the front door-lifted off(no tools) removed the floor of the oven (2 standard nuts at the rear). nut driver to remove the igniter. Took longest to untwist and retwist wires & dropped screws. reassembled and tested...worked perfice. this is the 4th time I've used Parts Select and It's great....Thanks and keep up the good work!
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- Customer:
- Roger from Downingtown, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Oven would not light
Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it
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- Customer:
- DUANE from BROOKFIELD, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Igniter Would Not Glow To Ignite The Gas
Remove the broiler pan to get at the 2 nuts that hold the gas burner, remove them and then you can get at the 2 nuts on the back side of the igniter.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Fairbury, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
oven not working, broiler working, burners working
i followed the same directions others had posted - good tip to remove the oven door for easier access - i was nervous about stripping the wires to splice together, so i made my hubby strip the wires for me :) - did all the rest myself. no trouble at all - if a girl can do it, anyone can do it!
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- Customer:
- Josephine from Hawthorne, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
oven wouldn't heat
My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm
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- Customer:
- ERNEST from MANCHESTER, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB35X37973
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
finish on old oven bottom was damaged
Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie
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