RGB745WEHFWW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Disconnect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.

Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

i followed the same directions others had posted - good tip to remove the oven door for easier access - i was nervous about stripping the wires to splice together, so i made my hubby strip the wires for me :) - did all the rest myself. no trouble at all - if a girl can do it, anyone can do it!

I was able to access the burner and igniter by removing the broiler drawer. The flame guard was removed with a nut driver and the old igniter with a phillips screwdriver.

The electrical wires had to be spliced into the old igniter wires as they did not come with the factory connectors. However sire nuts were supplied.

After replacement of the igniter with the new one .. it would glow and about a minute later the gas would come on. However the gas from the burner did not light. I had to adjust the bracket closer to the burner to correct the issue.

Note: The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. This means that it will continue to glow even after the burner lights durning oven operation.