RGB533WEHAWW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.

Easy

remove old burner, put new in place

The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.

Couple of screws and it was done. Simple and inexpensive since I thought I was going to have to buy a new range.

The repair went easy the tube was a perfect fit

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

remove the door, removed about six screws and did a clean up on the glass. the replacement part was screwed back in place. so easy

Removed the old handle with the new one.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

unscrew desconect power and replace it

Removed old part by removing the screws at the boottom of the oven door. I wasn't sure if the glass oven door cover would remain in place once the trim piece was removed, fortunately I was ready when it came down. The glass cover is large and heavy so you need to be ready to handle the bulk of this piece once the last screw is removed. Cleaned everything and with the help of my wife, who secured the oven door cover in place, secured the new trim piece by replacing the screws. What a difference, looks like new! PartSelect provided great service in terms of speed and part acciracy.

I removed the two nuts that secure the rear orifice tubes. This allowed me to lift the range top to access the broken tubes. Once lifted I removed the nuts that held the broken orifice tubes. I then connected the new orifice tubes. I removed the three(star)screws that fasten the orifice brackets under the range top. Doing this allowed me to connect the new tubes without having to maneuver them at all. I then lowered the top just enough to reattach the brackets. After securing the rear tubes I snapped the range top back into place. Just remember, if you use propane for cooking then you must remove the brass orifices from the old tubes and place them in the new ones. If you don't do this then your flame will not burn properly. Simply unscrew them from the old tubing and put them in the new tubing.

Unplugged the range. Took out all the necessary screws and lifted up the cooktop cover. Unscrewed each gas tubes connecting to each gas burner's dial to allow more working space. Pulled out the old thermostat, installed the new one. Put back the gas tubes and all other necessary screws. Plugged the range and tested out the new thermostat.

unplug power and turn off gas/// had to remove all star screws on top/remove ign wire from each burnner/now remove stove top/ adj wrench and remove nuts from the front nobs and relace with new front orifice tubes NOTE: Front orifice tube is the leftside. Front orifice HOLDER is the right side. put back top, open front to put hand in to make adjustments to ign wires close top and reinstall star screws and using finger to hold and make adjustments on top now turn power and gas on. I use soapwater to test for leaks/ leo gubin