RGB533DEP2WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Donald from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10250
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
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- Customer:
- Akshay from Bridgeton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner had uneven flames
Too easy a five year old could do it
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- Customer:
- Jeannene from HUNTINGTON, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10250
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Part rusted over time...22 years.
Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Solomon A from COLLEGE PARK, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
The eye would not light
Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.
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- Customer:
- John from BOCA RATON, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB15X10048
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced broken oven door handle
On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.
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- Customer:
- Dolores from AVOCA, IA
- Parts Used:
- WB27T10469
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Digital clock no longer worked
No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.
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- Customer:
- john from buford, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB07K10250
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
bottom trim had rusted out from water build-up
disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.
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- Customer:
- Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB19K10044
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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- Customer:
- Lenora from Crowley, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
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- Customer:
- Steve from WOODHULL, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21K10100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The front left burner would not turn because the burner valve was physically stuck and wouldn't turn.
Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
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- Customer:
- Hugh from PLEASANT HILL, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB03K10036
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Temp. numbers worn off knob.
Pulled off old knob. Calibrated new knob and pushed it on.
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- Customer:
- Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks old and ugly
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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