RB757EH5BB Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Russell from Yuma, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven Wouldn't Heat
Replaced
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- Customer:
- Martin from plainfield, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Front Large Most Powerful Burner's Block had broken so it didn't heat
This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!
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- Customer:
- Wiley from Port Orchard, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The bake element quit working.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the wires to the new element and reinstalled the two screws. A brief test showed the element worked and that was it.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The element split open and burned out
I unscrewed two screws inside the over over the element. Then I slowly pulled the element out and unplugged the two wires attached. Afterward I pushed the element back in place and screwed it back in and was done. Sure saved $550 I thought I might have to spend on a new oven,
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- Customer:
- Roger from Falls Church, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old blackened oven racks
Replaced old with new.
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- Customer:
- CLYDE from SAINT PETERSBURG, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
every thing went great
every thing went great
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- Customer:
- Emmett J from Winchester, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
terminal was broken due to maney uses
unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block
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- Customer:
- Jim from Williamsburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
oven would not heat
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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- Customer:
- Gregoire from N CHESTERFLD, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
OVEN CLOCK CONTROL MALFUNCTIONED
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.
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- Customer:
- Michael from GILLETTE, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The oven does not keep adequate temperature.
Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.
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- Customer:
- Ivan from FORT WORTH, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB30X24401, WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
left front Burner not working
Unplug stove from its wall outlet. Remove two screws securing rear panel. Pull off knob to Burner control which was damaged when surface
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
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- Customer:
- Nancy from BRICK, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB04K10021
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Replace Gasket to Oven
Removed old gasket, did need to use pliers. However, it was easy. The new gasket just snapped in place ...super easy.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from SPRINGFIELD, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987, WB30X46986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
When I took out the baking element, the wires went up inside because they were so short, I got a hold of one of them but couldn't get a hold of the other.
Had to pull out the refrigerator and put it in the dining room in order to pull out the stove to be able to get to the back of it. Had to take off the back of the stove to get to the wiring for the baking element, so at that point I replaced the broil element at the same time. Not a easy job at all.
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- Customer:
- Charles from PORTLAND, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Switch was not turning off range indicator light
Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!
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- Customer:
- sherman from OPELOUSAS, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The burner coil had shorted out and actually burnt a hole in my non stick pan and after I replaced that, it would not heat up again. I actually swapped the wires from the back burner, but the small coils use a different watt switch and it would barely boil water with the big coil. So I ordered this
First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.
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