RGB540SEP5SA Hotpoint Range - Instructions

My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.

I put it in the same way tuck it out

Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.

Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

Removal old fashioned oven door handle took time after removing the oven door. New replacement handle was easy to install! Try to reinstall was long and finally got installed after 5 attempts due hinge on right side issue

Easy

Removed the old caps and replaced with new burner caps. The stove top looks brand new. Thank you.

The part that was ordered based on the shamanic wasn't the part that was needed for the repair. It was to short. I took the other screw for the other side and that screw was an inch longer than the screw that was ordered thru your company. I then went too a jar that I placed extra screws, nuts and bolts which l keep in my garage . I found a same length screw but a different head and it works perfectly fine. When I ordered the part from your company most of the parts did not have a photo of the part on file, or a description like how long the part is. I still ordered it because it should fit the make and model number that was posted on the shamanic that was showed to me on line.

remove old burner, put new in place

The repair went easy the tube was a perfect fit

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.