RB800BJ4BB Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Linda from Virginia Beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The bottom burner melted
First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.
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- Customer:
- Kerry from Loveland, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
fried oven control using raid
replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.
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- Customer:
- Joe from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The element started to spark and actually broke into two pieces.
I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!
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- Customer:
- bryan from cocoa, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
burner was inoperative
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you
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- Customer:
- daniel from valentines, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
eye wouldnt come on
removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in
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- Customer:
- Jack from Greensboro, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner not heating.
Isolated to control switch.
Replaced
Replaced
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- Customer:
- BILLY from WEBSTER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burner Would Not Turn Off
Replace control switch
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Edwardsville, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB23X5340
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven Sensor Replacement
The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Plantsville, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shorted Control Unit -
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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- Customer:
- Leon from Cullowhee, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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- Customer:
- Bernadette from Coatesville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46987
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
bake element needed to be replaced
My oven is wired into the wall so I had to cut the power off at the fuse box. The hardest part was pulling the stove/oven away from the wall to see if it was a simple plug in or wired in. I lifted bottom drawer out so I could get leverage and lifted the entire unit so I could put the front feet on the soft pads. It slid away from the wall easily. I found a socket that fit the screws on the plate holding the broken element and unscrewed it, saving the screws. A gently tug on the element pulled the attached ends through the hole. The tip of the ends were attached to the wall wiring by a small sliding metal clip. I carefully pulled the ends apart. One was hard to get apart to I had to push it with the tip of a knife. Once the old was off the new was super easy to put back on. Side the tips to the clips, screw the plate in place and push the oven back in place. Flip your fuses and turn on the oven. Yeah!
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- Customer:
- PETE from MANCHACA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Blew the electronic Control Board
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Highland, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
broiler element burned completely out
Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy
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- Customer:
- Luis from Kissimmee, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8 inch burner was burnt out
replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burner connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.
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- Customer:
- Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
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