RB526H3WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Removed to screws on bracket and sliped the element out. Inserted new element and installed bracket and two screws.

turned electricity off, removed element using a screwdriver had to take the back panel off, attached new element put stove back and tried it out and it worked probably 20 minutes. Also need to comment that was totally shocked how fast the element was shipped to me, ordered the part in the p.m. and it was here not the next day but the next ....awesome

First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.

I have a GE Profile oven and the heating element on the bottom broke in two. I found the part on your website very easily. It was easy to see that I had the correct part. I ordered the new element and it came in about three days. I easily took off the old element, but I was really surprised because the new one didn't fit. The heating element itself was the correct size, but the holes didn't quite match up. As a matter of fact I had to take some tin snips and expand the hole at the back of the oven. That was the only hard part, but it was really difficult to lean in that far without putting too much weight on the door. Anyway, I opened the hole about an inch more, plugged it in, and now it works perfectly!

Removed the old handle with the new one.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

First and foremost this website was very easy to locate the part number that we needed. Unplugged range from the wall. Removed the upper metal plate off of the back. Removed the ovens' control knob in the front, then removed the 2 screws that released the thermostat. Opened oven door and released the metal thermostat probe. Cut the other end of that wire at the thermostat switch in the rear of the range. Taped that wire to the new metal probe. pulled the old probe out the front of the oven pulling the new probe in place. Switched 1 wire at a time from the old thermostat to the new one in the back of the range. Works great. No more burnt muffins !

Remove lower drawer and contents. Unplug unit. Tilt range on its back for easy access. Tie open oven door to forward legs with sturdy rope. Use small socket to remove 2 back screws and 2 forward element hanger screws. Detach broiler element connections from wire clips(2). Insert new element, attach 2 new connections to clips first. Install back socket screws. Install front socket screws for element hanger. Slide in oven shelves. Release oven door rope. Lift range to normal position. Replace lower drawer. Plug 220 in. Test oven element then broiler.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.

Disconnected the plug from the receptacle; removed the 2 screws holding the element in place at the rear of the oven; removed the support bracket at the front (also 2 screws); removed the panel on the back of the range; pulled the wire clips off the element (had to replace one of them); slid the new element in place; reconnected the wires and fastened the element in place; reattached the support bracket and rear panel ... With the assistance of my wife (extra hands) this was an easy job!

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

ordered part shut electricity off took out 2 screws took of connectors put in new element replaced connectors replaced screws turn on elec started cooking

best to pull stove out away from wall connect from behind stove

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.