RB757WB1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

Parts ordered from Part Select arrived 2 days! after being ordered even though we selected standard shipping.

Old generic poorly fitting bowls were removed, replaced with correct GE chrome bowls from Part Select, changed out 8" surface burner and it feels like we have a new stove! It looks great. All the surface burners fit perfectly into the new chrome bowls.

I will definately be using PartSelect. for all my appliance repairs.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

This was so easy. First pull stove out and disconnect plug in from the wall. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new one in reverse order.

It is too simple to go into lengthy discourse on repair. Just pull the old one out and put the new one in its place. No adjustment was required as it was a perfect fit.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

part arrived very quickly. removed the rear cover. removed the old control unit. installed the new(retro fit) unit using the supplied wiring sheet diagram. The whole operation took about 30 minutes. Works great. Thanks PartSelect.

The initial symptom involved the heating elements turning off and on rapidly once high temperatures were reached. After cycling power to the range this went away for a few weeks. When the symptom reappeared, it involved the oven-on light turning on and off, even when the oven control was in the off position. This persisted after a power-cycle so I decided to replace the control board. The actual repair was quite easy. The hardest part was removing the sheet with the button labels from the old unit (I ended up inserting a knife and twisting it to separate the adhesive, which is only around the edges) and fixing it to the new unit in the proper position. The latter would have been much easier if I had realized up front that there are handy guide ridges against which to align it! Like another person whose repair story I read, the existing wire colors were not all an exact match. However each connector's function was clearly labeled on the PCB of the old board, so I had no trouble matching them up (line voltage was red, not black, and broil was blue, not purple). The only other difficulty I encountered was that the old yellow bake wire had a plastic guard on the connector and this did not fit in the appropriate hole on the new unit. I merely pried the guard off with a small screwdriver and used the bare spade-connector, which fit in the hole nicely. There was a small amount of exposed wire left, so i wrapped it in electrical tape although I doubt that was necessary.

I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.