RB585WB1WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Easy

While I appreciate all the various parts available from PartSelect, I was disappointed that the only heater element that was approximately the right size and shape for my wall oven had push-on prongs. My original was screw-on.

Thus, I had to (very) carefully drill through the somewhat thick metal tabs to get screws into them. This meant holding the tabs with a pliers while I drilled them out to make sure that I did not break off the tab. Then, I increased the hole size by using increasing diameter drill bits. I let the screws self-tap, but again this was done carefully to avoid breaking off the tabs. Finally, I found that the part of the new heater element going through the back wall of the oven was an inch or so longer than the original. This did not seem to cause a problem of overheating outside the oven. At least not so far!

It was so simple looking, I had it shipped to the tenants of the house. They swapped it out easily, and were happy to get back to baking.

Of course the first thing is to turn off the breaker, Unplug the appliance, pull the two electric feed wires off the old element. Then remove the four screws that hold the fan guard in, After that the two screws that held the Bake Element in place. Then reverse the process to install the New Element. Took about twenty mins. from start to finish. Just Like New. And thanks to Parts Select for their prompt service, Had the new part in two business days.

popped the new one on!

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

First I shut off the power at the power box. Second I removed two screws in metal plate. Third I unplugged the two wires. Repeated steps backwards and it works great.

saw when heating the stove up the bottom element wasn't getting hot. got part number and looked up online and ordered

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I ordered it on line and it was easy to fix, I had it done before my husband came home from work. I just undid the old one and pushed the new one on. I have to stay ordering from here was alot cheapier

Removed both racks, removed two screws holding element in. Removed two screws holding wires on element. Drilled holes in new element where the push-on connectors are attached so I could attach the oven wires to the new element. Attached the wires and screwed the element to the oven. Fit perfectly and the temperature of the oven matches the control knob finally!

Thanks.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and unscrewed the the two screws that connected the wires and element together. I then tried to connect the new element to the wires, but found that the screw holes were smaller than the original holes in the old element and the original screws wouldn't fit. No problem, I then got a cordless drill and found a drill bit a little bigger than the holes, I held the element connector with pliers and made the screw hole a little bigger, same with the other connector. I screwed the screws into the connectors with a socket wrench and then screwed the element back into the holes in the oven, then turned on the oven and it works as good as new.