RB757BB1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Removed oven door and racks. removed fan cover to expose elements two retaining screws.removed retaining screws and pulled burned element forward to expose electrical connectors.unconnected slide on connectors from old element and pushed leads onto new element and re-assembled.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and unscrewed the the two screws that connected the wires and element together. I then tried to connect the new element to the wires, but found that the screw holes were smaller than the original holes in the old element and the original screws wouldn't fit. No problem, I then got a cordless drill and found a drill bit a little bigger than the holes, I held the element connector with pliers and made the screw hole a little bigger, same with the other connector. I screwed the screws into the connectors with a socket wrench and then screwed the element back into the holes in the oven, then turned on the oven and it works as good as new.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

First, used the nutdriver to remove the two screws that hold the element. Then pulled out the element 4 inches. Disconnected the two wires from the old element and discarded it. Connected the wires to the new element and tightened them a bit by squeezing with pliers (not too tight, but just enough so they won't disconnect easily). Pushed the wires back through the insulation and screwed the two nuts back in place, making adjustments so that the element is level.

I had a great experience with part select. The part was easy to find and arrive within two days in perfect conditions. Everything went smoothly with the repair and the element is working very well.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

We simply typed in the model of the range and several selections of replacements came up on your website. We ordered the black porcelain ones to replace the old chrome ones, thinking they might hold up better and be easier to clean. They look great and I really think they WILL be easy to wipe up. Thank you, Part Select! Patty in Indiana

For 12 years I've been suffering with the incorrect burner bowls...I love to cook and it's really irritating when your bowls don't fit correctly. Now, I am amazed at how my burners fit! Thank you! What a Blessing!

Simply slide stove away from wall and unplug. Remove the center back plate on the rear of the stove, Open oven slide new element into rear of oven, snap into place. Return to rear of oven. slide wire connectors onto oven element prongs, replace center cover, make sure oven is turned off, plug stove back in and slide back into place. Open oven and turn on. allow element to heat up. Once the element has heated and the new burns off. Turn off the oven and replace the racks, This entire process took maybe 5 minutes.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!

Took the upper back covering off, disconnected the clock control. The only problem is the replacement didn't have the same connections so I was able to pull up the replacement number of wb27x10311 and asked for a diagram which told me exactly where to plug each of the red, white, blue and yellow wires, what a relief! To my amazement I fixed my "old" stove for less than $160, if I had called GE to service it, I'm sure I would have been looking at a $400 bill. This was the way to go, Thank You!

After needlessly replacing the Thermo-sensor and Bake element I was able to determine that, while I had proper voltage to the appliance I did not have power to bake element when bake knob was turned on. The broil element worked properly. I hesitated purchasing the Electronic Clock Control because there was nothing wrong with the oven clock and it was an expensive part. I switched out the control unit and was delighted to see the bake element heat up immediately. It was simple to replace and the instructions that came with it were adequate - just some differences in the color of wires. Thank you Part Select.com!

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?