RH758G*H1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

With great ease. Only thing I would have appreciated was knowing the size ofvthevrequired socket wrench. Otherwise it was easy and fun as the instructions were crystal clear.

Unplugged oven from mains.

Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.

Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different was to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.

The hardest part was working in the oven.

Turn off power
Open Oven Door, remove racks
Remove two mounting screws with nut driver.
Slide the element out to expose the wire connections.
Remove the screws and pull the element out.
Place the new element in oven.
Clamp on to each of the terminals with vice grips to keep from bending the element and install the screws.
Slide the element back into place and put the two mounting screws back in.

Put the racks back in and turn on the power and test. You may get a little smoke off the new coil.

Like I said the hardest part is leaning into the oven to attach the screws, do not sit on the oven door.

Could not believe how fast the part shipped. 2 days and it was here. All it took was using a nut driver to remove 4 screws and then put the new one in.

The bake element in my 17 year old GE free standing electric range became defective. This element has 2 terminals -- black (240V) and white (neutral). While removing the element from the range, a 2nd black wire was pulled out of the back of the oven. This wire had a bare terminal connection and apparently had been loose behind the oven shell for all these 17 years. Inspection of this wire showed it carried 115V. I wrapped this wire with electrical tape and reinserted it into the insulation behind the oven shell.

unplugged oven. removed oven racks.Disconnected old unit. Installed new unit. Very very simple

Unplugged range. Removed old element from back of oven which was held in by two screws. Unscrewed the wires that were attached to old element and screwed them into the new one.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I replaced it with the new element that took only two days to arrive and that was without paying extra express shipping fees. It couldn't have been easier. I didn't even wait for my husband to come home and install it. I had an oven-baked meal ready when he got home. I was very satisfied.

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Turned off circuit. Unscrewed old element. Connected new element and screwed it in. Worked like a charm. It shipped very quickly. Could not be more satisfied; total repair: $30 and prevented me from buying a new oven; satisfaction: priceless.

Open oven door about 3 inches - then holding on the door on either side - pull up and door slides off - put it aside - this is to make it easy for you to work inside oven compartment - at rear of oven where the element goes into the back wall - there are two nuts to remove - I did not have a nut drive so used a pliers (GE could have put slots in the nuts so one would just need a screwdriver) - pull element forward - there are wires attached to the 2 ends of the element - remove with screw driver - element is off - get new part from PartSelect -(and must say pleased with their service) - and reverse above procedure.

My sons helped with that. They had to use a pliers to remove the old screws (did not have to notches). After that they they removed the element. Then the wires had to be disconnected (after we unplug the oven from the main power source. Then the wires were connected to the new heating unit. We only got one screw in so far will work on getting the second one in when they return tomorrow. I did turn on the oven and it works!!!

Thank you to the nice young man that helped me on the phone.

Unscrewed the two screws that held it in place; disconnected the old; connected the new; replaced the screws. DONE.