RH961G4H1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I removed the old element from the oven and replaced it with the new element. Then I connected the two wires to the new element and pushed the element into place. Then I replaced the two screws that held the element in place. I then tested the oven and it worked wonderfully.

First I shut off the circuit breaker for the oven then removed the screws that hold the element in place. The element was pulled out about 3 inches and unscrewed the 2 screws to disconnect the two wires. Upon receipt of the new element, I simply reversed the above process and the oven performed like new. Very easy, very quick and very grateful to have the oven operating again and it was a very inexpensive fix.

This was so easy to do. First I took the two screws out of the holding plate. Then the element comes out and I took the two screws attaching the wires to each end of the element out. To replace it just reverse the above and turn it on let it heat for about 10 mins to burn off any residue and you are ready to start baking again. Although not really necessary it is reccommended to unplug or turn of the breaker before you start working on the problem.

First, we turned off power to the range. We removed the screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven and pulled out the element a few inches. We disconnected the 2 wires from the old element, and attached the new element with the 2 provided screws. We pushed the element back into the wall and secured it with the screws. Turned the power back on, turned the stove back on and, voila, the frozen pizza was well on its way to becoming dinner!

4 screws 4 off then 4 on done

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Turned off power. Removed old broken one installed new one in minutes. Turned power on and tested it out. If this 60 something lady can do it, you can too.

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.