RS776G201 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

I used a philip screw driver to remove two screws which enable me to pull the wires out about three inches from the back of the oven and replaced it with the new one after disconnecting the wires from the grill. The hardest thing was the limited space.

Turned off breaker,first . Then removed 2 nutscrews and pulled unit out , 4 inches ,removed 2 nutscrews joining the 2 wires and the 2 terminals of the bottom element. Removed bottom unit and replaced with new unit . reversing the process. Turned breaker on and tested the oven. Works fine. Took less than 15 minutes.

The complete repair was quick, easy, and painless. Not only did my item show up sooner than I thought the whole replacement took only 15 minutes, tops, to complete. I even had my 18 months old daughter helping too.

First and foremost I turned off the power to the oven by tripping the circuit breaker in the basement. Then verifying that the oven or stove top did not work to insure that the correct circuit breaker was tripped.

Then I removed the two mounting bolts on the support plate, that holds the element in place, from the rear wall of the oven. Then slide out the element just far enough to gain access to the wires that are attached to the element, about 3-6 inches. Carefully removed the two wires from the element with a screwdriver, noticing how flexible the ends of the element were. Removed the old element out of the oven. Placed the new element into the oven and then reattached the two wires to the new element terminals, being careful not to bend the ends of the element too much, very flexible!! Slide the element back into place and then reattached the mounting bolts. Turned all power back on to the stove and then turned the oven on and presto!, my oven is fully functional again.

First, turn off the power. Remove the two retaining screws, pull out the broken element far enough to unscrew the connectors, remove the element, reconnect the new element, screw it back in, turn the power back on. Yes, it is that easy! Took me all of five minutes. Took longer to find my tools!

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

unscrew two screws pull the old element out put in new one and screw back in . We had to wire it direct because our oven had quick connect connectors and this part did not. But it was no big deal and didn't take any time to fix.

The repair was pretty easy. I unplugged the stove and took the 2 screws out that secured the element into the back of the stove. I then used a pair of needle nosed pliers to pull the wires off the element that wasn't working and then attached the wires to the new element. I then put the screws back in place securing the element to the stove and it was done. It took me about 5 mintues and the element worked immediately.

The part arrived ahead of time by mail. I removed the old coil, very simple,, I installed the new one just as easy , Turned on oven and it worked prefectly , its a very simple procedure, thank you

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

Removed 2 screws (with 1/4" nut driver) on bracket holding heat element at back of oven. Pull element forward to expose the 2 wires connected to element, remove screws on wire corrections with flat head screw driver. Remove element from oven......Reverse the steps to install new heat element.....very easy job....except I cleaned the oven while I had the element out of the oven.

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.