RB532G3H1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Read and follow the instructions. Be careful when stripping old wires to attach to new element. Fit the element to ceramic casing prior to attaching wires. If new element does not seem level after replacement heat a large pot of water. The element will expand and the weight of the pan of water will settle the element. "Physics 101"

Followed instruction that came in the new parts. Each element took about 10 minutes to remove, inspect the wires, clean the connections and reconnect the new elements. The element covers that came with the kit were easy to install, and everything fit just fine. Most important thing is to turn of the electrical power to the unit BEFORE you start.

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

A friend had stopped by and insisted on replacing the heating element on my 32 year old range. It took him all of 45 minutes to replace it, and now it works like a charm.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

file/grind inner corners to fit into ceramic blocks correctly

First observed the situation to determine if I should try and repair. I decided I could and should. Got the element and proceeded. I first turned the power off at the circuit breaker to cut the electrical power to the stove then I removed the two screws that holds the unit in place and then pulled unit out to where I could see the wire connection; removed the two screws on the wire connection and replaced the old element with the new element. reinserted the unit back into position and replaced the two screws that holds the unit in the stove. Turned power back on and tested the oven for any problems. Stove is working great.

Easily removed two screws, pulled the wires out of the oven wall, disconnected the old and reconnected the new, pushed it back into the insulation, inserted the screws and tightened them. There was a problem with the model number. It was on a vinyl plate inside the oven drawer wall. The plate was slightly yellowed so I used my finger to wipe the yellow away. When I did, the model number ended up as a black smudge on my finger tip. GE's engineers could have come up with a better method of displaying the model number. GE's customer service operator, however, did an excellent job of helping me to ascertain, at least, some of the number.

My husband first turned the main breaker off to the stove. Pulled the stove away from wall, took off the back plate, unhooked the element and out the new one in!!

Shut off the power at the circuit breaker, removed the two nuts holding the element to the oven, unscrewed the two screws connected to the wire leads, removed the bad element and reversed the process to replace with the new one.

First I turned the power off to the oven/stove at the breaker box in the basement. Then I took the back plate off. Then I removed the two screws holding the wires onto the damaged element. Then I removed the two screws holding the element to the inside rear of the oven. Then I pulled the old element out and replaced it with the new element. I replaced the two screws that hold the element to the inside of the oven. Then I replaced the wires on the element where it protruded at the back of the oven. I put the back plate back on, slide the oven back in place and turned the power back on at the breaker and everything worked.