RC749202 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Removed old element, checked continuity and element was bad, Fit new element and everything was good. No problem except my arms were not long enough!! Repairs took about 15 minutes.

Just re-connected the electrical. Was the exact/correct replacement part. Repair successful. Thanks.

The repair was almost to easy. It makes me wonder how many times in the future I will be willing to now attempt a repair instead of waiting and paying much more to have someone else do it. I thank you for the easy to understand video directions.

The repair was very eash. The replacement element fit perfectly and only involved removing two screws, pulling the old element out far enought from the bak of the oven to disconnect the wires held by two screws . Disconnecting the two wires and installing the new element. This is a 25 year old appliance and is back to working like new. One note, be sure to shut the power off to the range because one of the wires connected to the element remains HOT! even if the oven is not on.

Replaced 30 year old stovetop cooking element with no problems. Stovetop works great now.

Replaced old bake element by removing two screws holding it to back of oven. Disconnected old bake element from lead wires by removing two other screws. Installed new bake element by reversing the process. Only issue is that the tabs on the element that connect to the leads are easily bent and you need to use vise-grips to keep from bending them. Otherwise, very easy. Thank you PartSelect.com for stocking this item that I used to repair my 45-year old GE range!

This was a second hand stove we have had for about 3-yrs. I noticed immediatley that the drip bowls and rings were not OEM parts & the bottom of the burners had actually been bent to fit the rings. I was very glad to find this website with a detailed diagram of the stove and parts. I intend to replace all the burners, drip bowl & rings, and then start replacing other parts as needed.

From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

The broil element was easy to replace. Start by either unplugging the unit from the wall or turning the circuit breaker off. I started by removing the two screws that hold it in the back. There was a support bar attached to the top with two screws also. After removing all screws, gently pull the element forward exposing the two wires. Make note of which wire goes to which terminal. I also clipped a clothes pin to each wire to prevent them from falling back through the hole. Disconnect the two wires and reconnect to the new element. Reattach all screws and you're done.

TURN OFF POWER , remove oven door & oven wire racks, remove two retaining screws in back of coil and pull the burnt coil foward enough to remove the screws that hold the wires to the coil. You may have to drop one side of the front support bracket to move coil forward.Fasten the new coil to the broiler wires with the new screws provided. Push the new coil back into place being careful not to pinch the wires in the opening. Refasten coil to the oven back with existing screws that you removed. Refasten front support.Put racks back in and put door back on.Easy fix! Easy to order, easy to install and came within days from order date. Very pleased with whole thing.

Turned off the breaker to the range. Turned on range to ensure no electricity was currently flowing to the range. Turned the range off and unscrewed the tilt lock hinge. Pulled the burner out to expose the wires. Popped the snap locks off the cover box and unscrewed the wires connected to the posts. Followed recommend directions to expose approx. 1/2" of new wire (this is what I used the knife for since I did not have a wire stripper available). Slightly cut thumb in the process (no blood, though). Removed old burner. Put new burner in place, re-attached wires to the posts and screwed in to place. Placed cover box back in place and secured using new snap locks. Attached tilt lock hinge using new screw that was provided. Turned breaker back on and turned on range. new burner worked great. Took about 20 minutes total. Wife was extremely impressed, mostly that I didn't electrocute myself. She now wants me to replace other three burners. No good deed goes unpunished.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

I diagnosed the problem as a burned out element. Received the part the next day (very quick service) My husband replaced the old element with the new. My broiler still doesn't work. I don't blame the company, my diagnoses was wrong. I have called the appliance repairman and it will probably be an expensive fix.