RC5460LI Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Turn off electricity to the oven. A socket set was needed for the small screws in my old oven. Once the screws were removed the element came off easily from two wires in the oven. You have to be careful when handling the wires that they don’t fall back into the oven. The new part was attached to the two wires, screws were tightened on the new element and that was it. When the oven was turned on the new element smoked a little but I saw on the video that is normal.

1. Turn off power to range and remove element.
2. Remove clips from ceramic guards.
3. Disconnect wiring.
4. Connect wires to new element.
5. Install ceramic guards and clips
6. Attached element to range.
7. Restore power.

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

simply lifted the heat coil and slid the rings off and lifted the drip pans off. Vacumed the bottom underneath the old pans. Cleaned the grease off around the stove where the rings sat. Let it dry and added the new rings and pans. Looks like it did 30 years ago.......let them try making a stove last that long today !! Make sure the power is OFF at the electrical box.

replaced

Cut the power off to the range, unscrewed the burner from range and pulled off the element and unscrewed the two screws

After receiving parts, was getting rims unpackaged and removing the old rims, then and installing the new ones. Extremely easy to do. No tools needed