RB7374D3 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

First I removed two hex nuts holding the element's faceplate to the back of the oven and pulled the entire element straight toward me a couple of inches, pulling the element's ends and connections into view. I unscrewed the two screws holding the element ends to their connections, connected the new element, pushed it back in place, and screwed the faceplate tight again. The most challenging part of the whole process was finding the part number for the GE oven (it's on the frame of the storage drawer underneath the stove).

My husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place. He then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. He then removed the old bake unit and replaced it with the new one. He reattached the wires and pushed the element into place. Then he put the two screws back in that hold the element in place.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Removed the element and replaced with the new. Reattaching the wires and securing the new element back in place with the screws provided. Packed well, shipped promptly, installed quickly. Super easy.
Thank you.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...I copy and pasted this from their example - it really is that easy - this is a simple repair.

I turned off the electricity, unscrewed the old one and disconnected the electric wires, then put the new one in just like the old one. It was very easy and now it works great.

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER before doing anything even if oven is not turned on! If I hadn't checked voltage with tester before starting I would have made a shocking discovery.
1) unscrewed shield cover to get get at the element screws.
2) unscrewed element screws and removed old element - pulling connecting wires out about 3 inches
3)attached new element to connecting wires (2 screws)
4) pushed new element into place and reattached element connector plate to wall of oven
5) reattached shield cover to wall of oven

Unplugged stove, removed front door, carefully removed two screws holding the cover plate of the element. Gently pulled the element out about 3-4 inches removed the two screw attaching the electrical wires to the element , making sure the wires did not pull back into the stove. Removed old element, attached new element to the electrical wires with the new screws received with the new element. Carefully pushed the wires and element back into place making sure the insulation was also in place. Re-attached the cover plate with the two screws I had removed. Plugged the stove back in and tested the element. Replaced the front door .... job complete!

Just wanted to add that the part came in two days, super mailing time, thanks!!

Just like your example said/turn the power off to the oven/remove the screws that hold the element in place and then I pulled th element out a little ways and disconnected the wires/reconnecting took a little longer only because it was hard to see/but I connected the two wires and put the screws back in and it worked. Saved me a lot of money/my husband wanted to get a new double oven

The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I removed the old element from the oven and replaced it with the new element. Then I connected the two wires to the new element and pushed the element into place. Then I replaced the two screws that held the element in place. I then tested the oven and it worked wonderfully.

First I shut off the circuit breaker for the oven then removed the screws that hold the element in place. The element was pulled out about 3 inches and unscrewed the 2 screws to disconnect the two wires. Upon receipt of the new element, I simply reversed the above process and the oven performed like new. Very easy, very quick and very grateful to have the oven operating again and it was a very inexpensive fix.

This was so easy to do. First I took the two screws out of the holding plate. Then the element comes out and I took the two screws attaching the wires to each end of the element out. To replace it just reverse the above and turn it on let it heat for about 10 mins to burn off any residue and you are ready to start baking again. Although not really necessary it is reccommended to unplug or turn of the breaker before you start working on the problem.

First, we turned off power to the range. We removed the screws holding the element to the back wall of the oven and pulled out the element a few inches. We disconnected the 2 wires from the old element, and attached the new element with the 2 provided screws. We pushed the element back into the wall and secured it with the screws. Turned the power back on, turned the stove back on and, voila, the frozen pizza was well on its way to becoming dinner!

4 screws 4 off then 4 on done

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.