S100 Hoover Range - Instructions

dissembled the burner, remove the broken blocpk and bad spade.rewiered and assembled the burner.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

Had to remove the glass top and the control panel and the panel bracket then use angled needle nosed pliers to compress the retainers then pull the switch from the inside of the oven

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Replaced the control.

Removed front wooden kick panel(2 cross recessed screws).
Removed 2 bolts holding blower to floor. Loosened 2 vent clamp screws on vent from stove(2 clamps). Pulled vent off of blower housing. Removed blower from under stove. Using a nut driver, removed 4 nuts from blower and removed the motor cover & motor from the blower housing, removed 3 screws from motor cover and removed the motor cover from the motor. Ordered new motor. After new motor was rcvd (about 3 days plus wk end) I removed the squirel cage from the motor shaft using a metric allen wrench. Then removed the mounting clamp from the old motor by loosening 1 screw. Placed the motor clamp and the squirel cage on the new motor, then placed the motor cover on the motor. Placed blower mtg bkt and motor on blower housing w/ the 4 nuts removed earlier. Placed blower motor assy under stove being careful not to damage the exaust vent behind the blower motor as I carefully put the blower motor into the exhaust vent. Placed vent from stove on stove and blower housing and secured w/the 2 vent clamps removed earlier. Attached the blower motor base to the floor w/ 2 bolts. Wala........complete

switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions

Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.

I removed the back of the stove for easy access to the wiring (three hex head screws) and removed the two wire leads. Then I began to remove the mounting screws from the inside of the oven, the first three screws came out fine the last one was so tight that I had to resort to vise grip pliers. Jenn-Air should have used hex head screws instead of phillips head inside the oven. Finally after about 15 minutes the last screw came out. I installed the new element, reinstalled the screws and wires. Then I replaced the back and tested. Total about 45 minutes.

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.