S100 Hoover Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

This same repair 2 years ago thru a Factory repair "professional" had cost $200. My cost $42.00!! Cost to replace the entire range...$1700.00.

We cut off the electricity to the stove before touching anything. We removed the 2 screws on the plate that is mounted to the inner wall of the oven. Then we pulled the element out 2-3 inches and disconnected the wires. We connected the wires on the new bake element and pushed it into place, inserted the screws and DONE!

The bigger part of the "repair" was the clean up of the fire extinguisher residue inside the oven due to the fire.

Remove old filter- put in new filter. EASY!!!!!!!!

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Had to remove the glass top and the control panel and the panel bracket then use angled needle nosed pliers to compress the retainers then pull the switch from the inside of the oven

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Replaced the control.

Removed front wooden kick panel(2 cross recessed screws).
Removed 2 bolts holding blower to floor. Loosened 2 vent clamp screws on vent from stove(2 clamps). Pulled vent off of blower housing. Removed blower from under stove. Using a nut driver, removed 4 nuts from blower and removed the motor cover & motor from the blower housing, removed 3 screws from motor cover and removed the motor cover from the motor. Ordered new motor. After new motor was rcvd (about 3 days plus wk end) I removed the squirel cage from the motor shaft using a metric allen wrench. Then removed the mounting clamp from the old motor by loosening 1 screw. Placed the motor clamp and the squirel cage on the new motor, then placed the motor cover on the motor. Placed blower mtg bkt and motor on blower housing w/ the 4 nuts removed earlier. Placed blower motor assy under stove being careful not to damage the exaust vent behind the blower motor as I carefully put the blower motor into the exhaust vent. Placed vent from stove on stove and blower housing and secured w/the 2 vent clamps removed earlier. Attached the blower motor base to the floor w/ 2 bolts. Wala........complete

It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.

Shut off electrical breaker to stove. Unscrew & remove heating element with standard screwdriver. Since screw threads were stripped I used a longer screw I wrapped thread with teflon tape. Connect new heating element & crimp connectors to ensure contact is made, push wires back & tighten screws. Turn power breaker back on & we have a new oven!

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.