H3137WUA-L Hardwick Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Marsha from Concord, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Somerville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP3412D024-09
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
burner head was rusted out. ordered 1 to see if part was correct. ordered 4 more to finish job.
unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.
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- Customer:
- Shannon from Lake Park, IA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven won't stay light
removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.
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- Customer:
- Treasure from High Point, NC
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't ignite
First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !
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- Customer:
- Cindy from Colton, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP5504M003-19
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven floor panel was warped.
It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison
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- Customer:
- John from Caliente, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven wouldn't ignite
Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.
Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.
Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Kalamazoo, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12001596
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burners would not ignite
Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.
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- Customer:
- David from Upland, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12001596
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
spark ignition in stove failed to turn on burnes.
Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.
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- Customer:
- Matt from Craig, CO
- Parts Used:
- 12001596
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Igniters were flaky on 2 burners and almost dead on 2
The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".
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- Customer:
- Charles from Old Bridge, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12001596
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Secaucus, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
oven would not turn on flame
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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- Customer:
- John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP7407P182-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Faulty bulb receptacle
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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- Customer:
- peter from marine city, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven wouldn't light
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
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