CG9616W429R Hardwick Range - Instructions

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I put the 2 burner knobs on and now I have 4 working burners....Thanks for the quick delivery....

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplug and pull range away from wall.
Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws.
Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module.
Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall.
Install new module by reversing procedure.
Slide range back against wall and plug in.

Entire process took less than 30 minutes.

NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.

l removed the top section after the grates. Then l took the phillips screws out of the three brackets which hold the L brace which supports the controls,thermostat and the regulator. Only because l did not have a closed-end ratchet wrench for 1/4" and l could not locate my 1/4" socket for my small rachet. l disconnected all gas lines and the thermocouple, then l used the power screwdriver without the apex which makes it a great power 1/4" nutdriver and took out the two screws holding the thermostat. Then l just reversed all the steps installing the new thermostat and once l got the air out and gas was pure l lit the pilot lights and everything worked great. And l adjusted my top burner pilot lights a little higher to prevent them from gettig blown out so easy. Done deal.

Just replaced the old burner knobs with the new !!!

This was not a difficult task. I just slid the valve knob on the shaft, repair was complete. This was a very easy diy project.

I took a pair of channel locks pulled the old one off pushed the new one on they look really nice and was glad they had the parts for such an old stove. thank you,now my hubby is glad so he doesn't have to buy a new stove.

Inserting two stove valve knobs took 10 seconds! No tools necessary.

The hard part was finding the parts, this oven seemed to have a temperature control knob that required a long fitting to reach the valve stem. The set of knobs I found on PartSelect were the only ones I could find. They worked great and took about 30 seconds to put on.

Removed what was left of the original clips. Pressed in the new clips and snapped in the themostat blub