H3177XUW Hardwick Range - Instructions

My front burners were inoperative because the metal gas lines under the cooktop were cracked. This happened because I tried to remove the cooktop without properly removing the screws holding the assembly to the cooktop. Doh!

Anyway, this is an easy fix. First, remove the 4 burner tops by rotating them counterclockwise and lifting them out of the cooktop. Then, remove the two ignitor wires from each burner, and set the burners aside.

Next, remove the four small screws that hold the burner tube assemblies to the underside of the cooktop. There is one screw near each burner hole in the cooktop (the screws are covered when the burner tops are installed). You must remove all four screws even if you are only installing one replacement orifice and tube kit!

Now you can tilt the cooktop up and remove it from the stove, exposing the orifice and tube assemblies. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the brass nuts connecting the gas tubes to the valves, and remove the assembly.

Reassemble in reverse order.

If you have "high speed" burners, remove the orifice that comes on the unit and replace it with the loose orifice that is in the packaging.

I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to get behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws holding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

It was very simple, pull off the old one, then I took some pliers and pulled out the fasteners. Took new gasket from bag and it just snapped into place.

CAUTION: DO NOT LIFT RANGE TOP AS IT WILL CRIMP YOUR GAS FEED TUBES!!!

Remove grates and drip covers. Twist each burner counter clockwise and lift off. Remove ground wire and ignitor wire from each burner. Remove screws that holds the Orifice/Tube assy to the range top (one where each burner was) You might have to remove the orange rubber flanges if they didn't stay on the burners to see the screws.

Now lift (or remove) your range top to get access to the tube assy. Take a wrench and remove each gas tube nut (2 for each assy) and remove the old assy.

Drop each new Tube assy in and reverse the procedure.

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.

Saw that the igniter came on, but no gas flow.
Unpluge stove. Remover bottom of oven to have access to flow valve. Remored sheet metal cover.
Removed burner. Unpluged flow valve and removed it.

The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.