GGF334BHWD Gibson Range - Instructions

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

un-pluged stove,removed the one screw holding the broken igniter. disconected the one wire. installed new igniter and slipped on wire. The igniter came with a new bracket, the old one rusted away which is why the old igniter broke.

All the was needed was a Phillips screw driver. It's not difficult. Watch out because the door is spring loaded and does seperate quickly after all the screws are out. Be sure to watch the front panel, it appears to be heavy glass and can come out of the slots during the repair. I only had to re-assemble and dis-assemble 4 times before I got it right but it's still fairly easy to do if you take your time.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Unplug range, remove oven racks, remove 2 screws at the rear of oven bottom sheet metal panel. Lift the back of the panel and slide to the rear a little , then remove panel. Remove nut on top of heat shield and remove shield.. Open broiler draw slightly Note wire connections to gas valve. Remove Philips head screw from sheet metal guard bottom left rear to access wire connection. remove 2 hex head screws the hold igniter in place and install new igniter. remove spade connectors from gas valve and connect spade connectors from new igniter. , remove molex connector from bottom left rear and connect one from new igniter..Install shield in left rear bottom. install heat shield over burner and install nut. Install sheet metal panel in bottom of oven and 2 rear screws.. install oven racks and plug range back in. set clock and test your repair.

order pcs fit perfect.

The stove was older so the burner was hard to get out. The small screw heads broke off, so I had to carefully center punch and drill out the screw bodies. The igniter screw was also frozen in the pot metal burner. That screw requied drilling and tapping with the installation of a new 6-32 screw. Once the burner was refurbished, the igniter mounted easily. Afte attaching the gas line and igniter wire, the burner worked great.

First i want to thank you for the quick responce, i got my order in one day. Took top of stove off, took out the old part, put the new one in, made several test to adjust the heat settings put everything back together alls well, now my wife can cook things without burning everything, thank you from the bottom of my heart, a happy wife means a happy man. William L Zeis.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Lifted top burner plate, removed all knobs, removed front plate that holds oven burner control. Removed burner control feedind thermocouple through hole at top of oven. Installed new oven control, fed t-couple back through hole and placed in holder. Put front plate back in place and re-installed knobs. Oven works great now, lights at 200* where as before would not light at less than 400* setting. Took only a straight blade and phillips screwdriver to do the job in less than 1 hour, that included cleaning the front plate and knobs while they wereoff.

First, I want to say how WONDERFUL your service was. I needed more info on a part and your phone rep. e-mailed me a picture of the part from which I was able to be sure it was the right part. I ordered the pard one day and they were delivered to my door the NEXT DAY....talk about service!!!

My husband did all the replacing, he had no problems with any of the 3 items he replaced, he said they were all easy to replace. They all work great. Thank You!!

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

no need to remover burner. Lift top up use a 1x4x5" to hold top up. Use short #2 screw driver remove screw and replace with new igniter

Slide out the old; slide in the new!