CGEF312ES2 Gibson Range - Instructions

It's kind of embarrassing!
As the breaker was being thrown to turn the current off, I discovered that the breaker box was burn up at the breakers.
Short story but I got'er done! The problem now is there is something still wrong with teh oven!
I think I see a new one in the future!
Thank you very much for the very prompt delivery.
My purchase has been without a flaw.
I have already sent the part back for a refund.
It cost me something like $13 for this experience for freight.
I will remember you with my next need.

I just plugged it into the receptacle on the stovetop and turned the thing on, and it worked! I'd been without the 4th burner for quite some time. Nice to have it back!

Unplugged range and cut wires on existing burner plug. Connected the replacement plug with the provided wire-nuts. Secured with provided shrink-wrap. Reattached burner plug to to range top, and plugged in the burner coil. Presto.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Instructions included with terminal block assembly. Toughest part was to strip the insulator off of the old wires on the stove. I was originally going to just purchase one but after looking at the other terminal blocks and seeing the burnt insulation and some of the wire strands, I just replaced all 4. PartSelect customer sevice was very helpful to confirm the correct part number I needed for my stove.

prepared the parts as directions displayed, removed the heating coils and popped the hood on the range, simple curcit 2 wires in to the main harness for each coil. snip, plug and twist add heat wrap to seal the new conections and done very simple fix saved me buying another oven....for now

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

Looked at the instructions and cut the wires, put the new wires in the block, attached the block to the range, put the new wires to the range wires using the wire nuts. I plugged the element into the block turned on the power, tried the element and it worked. It was really a easy repair.

I did the repair in less then 5 minutes. I took out old element and put in new one and turned it on and I had heat. Works great Thanks the part came in 2 days what a wonderful suprise that was.

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Googled the problem and found Oven Temperature Sensor and Main Terminal Block to be the most likely problems. Turned out to be neither. No parts were needed. Oven has a thermal overload switch on the rear upper left. Thermal overload needed re-set. To do so you have to remove the oven, remove the back and press the red button on thermal overload. Biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the oven. Even with the installation manual it was not easy to fgure out. The instructions are misleading. You need a special tool. I used two hacksaw blades as a substitute, and slid them in to release the clips. Once you figure out how to get the oven out the rest is simple.

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.