J49D1WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Replaced damaged element exercising the care suggested in repair comments by previous customers. Old unit had screws connecting the broiler element to the stove's electrical supply wires, which were difficult to remove due to old age. Just took a little extra care to ensure that supply wires were not damaged during disconnect and after reconnecting the new element the broiler tested OK. It is once again broiling steak to perfection

The only hard part of the job is removing the old, corroded terminal block. Be careful not to break the electrical wire. Other than that, just sand the contacts and reassemble. This is the second one I have replace on my 4 burner stove. 2 more to go.

The removal- replacement problem basically involves the shortness of the connector wires to the terminals. Because the burner is close to the top there is little room to use a screwdriver. The old unit used metal screws. The new came with open threaded holes in the terminals with two threaded screws. Used a small 1/4" ratchet which worked OK, but had to carefully bend the ends of the terminals to allow me to lower the element to an angle that would all room for ratchet action. (All design engineers should first have to work in maintenance before going to drawing board!)

S. Cooke, Houston Texas

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

The stove was new when we moved into our new home but opted to leave "our" stove in the basement until the one that came with the house had seen it's better days. The removal of the original element required the use an allen type of driver - it's removal was simple and the new element popped-into place without a problem and I refastened with the screws that came with the new element. The part arrived from PartSelect right on time, in good condition, and I would definitely do business with PartSelect again when I need to! My only complaint has nothing to do with PartSelect, it is the angle one must assume to refasten the part into place! Thank you, and I'll be back!

It was so easy to find the correct items on your web site and they arrived in a very timely manner. Perfict fit. Now I know how to get parts when I need them.

less than 15 minutes R2 the part, ops ck'd good. 4ea 1/4" screw/nuts, they didn't fight me...

The replacement drip bowl and trim ring fit perfectly.

Simple replacement on an old "built in" range in good condition but drip pans and trim rings soiled beyond cleaning. Stove top, although 20+ years old, now looks like new. So glad to find parts were still available as "universal" replacement parts for the 8 inch burner do not fit. Delivered to my door in days.

Just replaced drip pans and rings on stove

After receiving parts, was getting rims unpackaged and removing the old rims, then and installing the new ones. Extremely easy to do. No tools needed