JB600G4C1 General Electric Range - Instructions

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

Removed two socket head screws form inside oven rear wall. Pulled element out and disconnected two screws attaching wiring. Replaced with new.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

It was so simple, I turned off the breker to the oven, unscrewed two screws holding in the element, pulled out until the wire connetion was exposed. I unscrewed those two screws, then placed the replacement part, put the two screws on, pushed back the wiring and insulation.Final step was screwing two screws to hold the unit to the oven back. So simple! The part was ordered regular mail and still was here in 2 days. Will recommend to friends for sure!

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

Made sure oven was turned off. I used nut driver to remove nuts holding old element to back of oven. gently pulled element out of wall, taking care not to yank because of wires attached to back of element. Made sure oven was off again and then used nut driver to carefully remove wire leads from receptors on element. removed old element from oven and got the new element. carefully used nut driver to attach wire leads to new element. When snugging the bolts to leads, used pliers to keep leads on the element from bending. carefully replaced wires and rear of element into the space behind oven, and used nut driver to attach the back of element to the back of oven. shut oven and turned on to make sure it worked. it did. I was very pleased with my experience with part select dot com, and will be buying another element soon to replace the one in my other oven! Thank you

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

I turned off the electricity, unscrewed the old one and disconnected the electric wires, then put the new one in just like the old one. It was very easy and now it works great.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...I copy and pasted this from their example - it really is that easy - this is a simple repair.

First I removed the one screw that hold the terminal block in place. I then pulled the terminal block out about 3 inches and unscrewed the two screws and disconnected the two wires. Then I got the new terminal block and re-attached the two wires with the two screws. Then I screwed the terminal blocked with the one screw and then I inserted the 8" Surface Element and I turned it on and it heated up very quickly. It works better than it has in many years.