JGRP16GET1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Followed previous posts, just took out the metal pan (2) 1/4" head screws. Removed the ignitor bracket (2) 1/4" head screws. Disconnected the existing ceramic wirenuts. Removed the ignitor from the bracket......this was the hardest part as the self threading screw stripped out in the sheet metal. Took some time to remove that screw and re-tap the hole to #10-32. Once that was done used a #10-32 x 1/2" machine screw with lock washer. All went back together fine from there.

I put the grates in backwards and the wife had to turn them around after teasing me about it......maybe I should do more baking.......

removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.
opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.
I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors.
then just closed up everything in reverse.
helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.

0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.

First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Removed oven door from oven. Removed the inner oven door portion from the outer part to gain access to inner screws attaching end caps to front of stove door. Removed those screws and the old end caps & broken off pieces. Pressed oven door handle bar into new end caps. Reattached oven door handle assembly to front of oven door. Reinstalled inner oven door which included long screws that also went into the new end caps. Reinstalled oven door on oven. Job was easy. Price was certainly right for the end caps at $10.01/each.

First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on the new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.